CERN
ntoll.org
<p>Last week I visited <a href="https://home.cern/">CERN</a> with my youngest (16yo) son,
William.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="We love CERN" src="https://ntoll.org/images/i_heart_cern.jpg" />
<figcaption>Myself (L), William (R) and a young friend (C).</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Our road to CERN started in the summer at
<a href="https://ep2023.europython.eu/">EuroPython</a>.
Will volunteered at the conference registration desk and checked in
<a href="https://pelson.github.io/">Phil Elson</a>. Noticing Phil's conference badge
(indicating he worked at CERN), physics-mad Will started asking Phil all
sorts of questions.</p>
<p>Further physics conversations ensued between Will and (the ever patient) Phil
over the course of the conference. In the end Phil suggested we just come visit
CERN and Will could explore to his heart's content. Furthermore, since I had
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlgC-v8l_Sk">presented a talk about PyScript</a>
at the conference, Phil mentioned colleagues at CERN who'd be interested in
learning more about the project and who may possibly have uses for the work I'm
currently doing. A plan was hatched for a "dad and son" adventure to CERN so
Will could soak up the physics and I could present and meet with fellow coders.</p>
<p>Thank you to Phil, Jo and their children for putting us up during our visit to
CERN. Staying at chez Elson was, in itself, worth the trip. Both Will and I
had lots of fun with the Elson children, be that reading stories together or
helping with dressing up.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Young astronauts" src="https://ntoll.org/images/astronauts.jpg" />
<figcaption>Young astronauts!</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The photograph of the "#I💙CERN" sign, at the beginning of this post, was taken
outside the brand new education centre on the day we arrived at CERN.</p>
<p>As a former teacher, and someone still passionate about engineering education
and pedagogy, this brand new facility was great fun to explore. The curators
have put together an excellent set of displays, videos and interactive props
along with a comprehensive timetable of lectures, classes and workshops.</p>
<p>This is how to engage folks with science, technology and engineering. Bravo!</p>
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tim_Berners-Lee">Tim Berners-Lee</a> worked at CERN
when he invented the World Wide Web (through which you are reading this blog
post). I was delighted to find a small display in the exhibition space
explaining his work and the origin story of the web, along with the computer
used to develop the very first web server.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="With the world's first web server" src="https://ntoll.org/images/nicholas_web.jpg" />
<figcaption>With the world's first web server.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The next day started at 8am with a visit to the
<a href="https://atlas.cern/">ATLAS</a> detector. The CERN
facilities were off for maintenance and upgrades, so we were able to get
to places not normally open to visitors like us.</p>
<p>The
<a href="https://home.cern/science/accelerators/large-hadron-collider">Large Hadron Collider</a>
is the world's largest and most powerful particle collider. It is 27
kilometres in circumference and buried around 100 metres below the French
and Swiss countryside. Put very simply, its job is to smash protons together so
physicists can analyse the resulting subatomic particle "debris" and learn more
about the structure of the subatomic world and the laws governing it.</p>
<p>The collisions happen at several points in the LHC and it is at such points
that particle detectors, like ATLAS, are found.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Lego ATLAS" src="https://ntoll.org/images/lego_atlas.jpg" />
<figcaption>A Lego model of ATLAS. Check the autographs on the bricks at the front of the model.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>This being the first visit of the day to CERN facilities, the journey to the
device left quite a theatrical impression. We had to don hard hats (making us
all look like the Lego mini-figures on the model in the reception area), watch
as our guide used a retina scanner to access the facility (very Hollywood), and
travel 100 meters below the surface in a lift. We emerged into a labyrinth of
tunnels adjacent to rooms containing racks of computers and other equipment
needed to run the experiment.</p>
<p>Finally we got to the cavern containing ATLAS.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="The ATLAS experiment" src="https://ntoll.org/images/atlas.jpg" />
<figcaption>The 7000 tonne ATLAS detector.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Photos of ATLAS don't do it justice: it is so overwhelmingly HUGE that your
whole field of vision is filled with the device (it is seven stories tall).
Imagine constructing a large multi-story car park filled to the brim with
intricate electronics, in a ship-in-a-bottle manner but 100 metres underground.
What a feat of planning, engineering and construction!</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Will and ATLAS" src="https://ntoll.org/images/will_atlas.jpg" />
<figcaption>Will and ATLAS.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>ATLAS is made up of layers, each of which detects different sorts of subatomic
particles - hence the circular arrangement of equipment centred on the particle
beam.</p>
<p>Each collision creates terabytes of data, most of which is processed as close
to the device as possible and thrown away. Only those aspects of the data that
are of interest get to make it to the data centres on the surface and then to
a global network of computers crunching and analysing the results (the World
Wide Web was invented specifically so scientists could share such data).</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Will has questions" src="https://ntoll.org/images/will_has_questions.jpg" />
<figcaption>Will has questions.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Once the mind boggling scale of the device had been processed, as well as its
extraordinary engineering explained, William took the opportunity to ask the
physicists on hand all the questions about all the things. I have to admit, I
had no idea what they were talking about... I am a classically trained musician
with a background in academic philosophy who earns a living as a software
engineer, and so their conversation was well beyond my level of subject
matter knowledge.</p>
<p>Here's the thing, not for the first time I observed folks recognise in Will a
fellow physics enthusiast. Then they would open up about their passion for
their work and scientific interests. This was a privilege and joy to behold,
and Will was in his element. He really appreciated their time and patience.</p>
<p>Between technical meetings in the morning and a presentation about PyScript in
the afternoon, we saw many other parts of the CERN facilities. The highlight
for me being a visit to <a href="https://cms.cern/">CMS</a>, another titanic machine and
feat of engineering 100 meters below the surface.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="We took the lift" src="https://ntoll.org/images/we_took_the_lift.jpg" />
<figcaption>Looking down the service shaft. We took the lift again.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The CMS device is, like ATLAS, a sub-atomic particle detector but at the
antipode of the LHC to ATLAS.</p>
<p>As I understand it, CMS and ATLAS essentially do the same thing but were
designed by independent teams so the resulting devices differ in their
capabilities and the details of their engineering. They complement each other
because the results from one device check and confirm the results of the other,
thus giving scientists greater confidence in the data coming from the detected
collisions in each device.</p>
<p>There is, of course, a friendly rivalry between the two teams and I quipped to
our CMS guide, Benjamin, that it felt like CMS and ATLAS are to physicists
as vi and EMACS are
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Editor_war">to computer programmers</a>.
To which Benjamin shot back, "I'm a vi user". This was yet another hint at the
renaissance man/woman aspects of many of the hugely talented folks working at
CERN. Through the course of our tour, not only did Benjamin reveal his
background in Physics (by fielding yet more questions from Will, of increasing
incomprehensibility to me) but touched upon the various engineering aspects of
the CMS device as well as sojourns into materials science, computing hardware
and "big data". Bravo Benjamin, this was an entertaining virtuoso performance
of passion for the project.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="The CMS experiment" src="https://ntoll.org/images/cms_unplugged.jpg" />
<figcaption>The 14000 tonne CMS detector.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Once again, the scale of the device was overwhelming.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Building the CMS" src="https://ntoll.org/images/cms_build.jpg" />
<figcaption>A photo of a poster showing pieces of CMS being lowered into
position down the service shaft.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>The service tunnels and shafts underground were perhaps more accessible to see
at CMS than at ATLAS, and these additional aspects of the life of the project
gave yet another dimension of the overwhelming scale of what goes on at CERN.
We were, in a sense, able to see the neck of the bottle through which the
14000 tonne CMS "ship" had been built.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Will and CMS" src="https://ntoll.org/images/will_cms.jpg" />
<figcaption>Will and CMS.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>It is while in the presence of such devices that one ponders how such things
are maintained and improved, who designs them, and what resources are
needed to make things work. It is then that one realises that CERN isn't just
about science, it's also a sort of creative cultural experiment consisting of
a huge number of people spread all over the world, collaborating to help us
comprehend what the universe is and how the universe behaves.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Nicholas and Will with CMS" src="https://ntoll.org/images/cms.jpg" />
<figcaption>Will and I dwarfed by the staggering engineering of CMS.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>However, such activity doesn't just happen at the titanic scale of ATLAS and
CMS.</p>
<p>The protons that are accelerated and smashed together have to come from
somewhere, and while visiting another CERN facility we found the source: a red
bottle containing hydrogen.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Proton source" src="https://ntoll.org/images/proton_source.jpg" />
<figcaption>Get yer fresh protons here! (From the red bottle of hydrogen.)</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>If that looks like a thermos flask containing a nice hot cup of tea
(<a href="https://hitchhikers.fandom.com/wiki/Infinite_Improbability_Drive">hat tip</a>),
you're not wrong. Such mundane looking yet essential objects
were another aspect of CERN that reminded me that any large engineering effort
contains an abundance of seemingly boring yet rather important bits and bobs
randomly attached to other stuff.</p>
<p>Another aspect of any complicated engineering effort is the inevitable use
of hand written warnings hastily taped to a button, panel or (in the following
case) valve:</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Valve must be closed" src="https://ntoll.org/images/valve.jpg" />
<figcaption>No matter the complexity of the engineering, you'll always find
a handwritten note.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In a similar vein, the LHC needs an "off" switch - a delightfully understated
device found on the desk of an operator in the LHC control room. This is used
when things don't go to plan.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="LHC dump beam" src="https://ntoll.org/images/lhc_off_switch.jpg" />
<figcaption>The LHC's beam dump switch (basically, the "off" button).</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>When pressed the LHC isn't actually switched off... rather a dump of the beam
occurs, where the protons, travelling at near the speed of light, get
redirected in a spiral fashion to around 30 meters of material that act as
a cushion to absorb the beam (to spectacularly over-simplify what really goes
on).</p>
<p>CERN also has a sense of humour.</p>
<p>When I asked a guide what went on at a rather nondescript area on a schematic
map of CERN labelled "north facility", they replied, with a twinkle in their
eye, that it was where they manufactured all the black holes. Another scientist
pointed at a door and exclaimed with glee that it was where they keep all the
secret alien technology (but they'd have to kill me if they told me more).</p>
<p>Clearly such tomfoolery is a complete nightmare for CERN's PR and media
department.</p>
<p>Thanks to the World Wide Web, not only can theoretical physicists share
information, but conspiracy theorists can share their own unhinged,
one-sandwich-short-of-a-picnic misinformation about what the universe is and
how the universe behaves. This includes many
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Men_in_black">Men In Black</a>
style assertions about CERN ~ such as the possible manufacture of world-ending
black holes.</p>
<p>Rest assured, the most dodgy things I observed at CERN were an interesting
looking risotto in
<a href="https://sce-dep.web.cern.ch/catering/refurbishment/restaurant1">restaurant 1</a>,
a desire to number buildings in chronological order of construction (something
with which even
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Postman_Pat">Postman Pat</a> would struggle), and a
large number of champaign bottles in the CERN control room (clearly these folks
know how to party).</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Bottles in the CERN control room" src="https://ntoll.org/images/bottles.jpg" />
<figcaption>CERN operations know how to hold a good party.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Actually, if you look carefully at the bottles you'll notice that each is
labelled with the name of a successfully completed experiment. Apparently it is
traditional to send an appropriately decorated bottle of bubbly to the CERN
operations team as a token of thanks for their considerable expertise and work
running the LHC.</p>
<p>That there is a CERN operations team, whose job it is to "drive" the LHC for
everyone else, is a reminder that CERN is not just full of physicists.
There is so much complementary work going on. Remember, the reason I was at
CERN was to talk about PyScript: CERN makes use of, and are interested in, all
sorts of computing technology, a huge variety of engineering, and ever more
creative ways in which to explain and share what on earth is going on to the
rest of the world.</p>
<p>A wonderful example of such a complementary discipline at work at CERN was
demonstrated during our visit to the robotics facility.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="Will with robots" src="https://ntoll.org/images/will_with_robots.jpg" />
<figcaption>Will with robots.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>How do you service the LHC when it is functioning?</p>
<p>You don't send people down there!</p>
<p>Instead, you use robots!</p>
<p>This was our final visit at CERN, on the morning of our return home. What
should have been a 45 minute quick guided tour extended to about an hour and a
half of enthusiastic explanation and demonstration.</p>
<p>The robotics lab have mock-ups of all the different sorts of area at CERN in
which the robots work, so they are able to test them and rehearse "situations".
The robots range from
repurposed bomb disposal robots trundling around on tank tracks, to robots that
hang from the monorail attached to the ceiling of the tunnel in which the LHC
is housed.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="The robot testing tunnel" src="https://ntoll.org/images/robot_test_tunnel.jpg" />
<figcaption>Phil, Jo, myself and Will in the robot testing tunnel.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>It was fascinating to learn how the robotics team take off-the-shelf parts and
modify, adapt and re-purpose them with bespoke "stuff" to help them do their
maintenance work.</p>
<p>For example, we were shown an electric drill you could have purchased from any
conventional DIY store, that had been dismantled, reconfigured and reassembled
to work while connected to a robot arm in the sometimes limited space in which
such devices are needed.</p>
<p>How else are you going to unscrew nuts and bolts with a robot?</p>
<p>Well, it turns out you could use a
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PNU84bbass">Luke Skywalker like</a>
robotic hand.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="A robot hand" src="https://ntoll.org/images/robot_hand.jpg" />
<figcaption>Will demonstrating a robot hand for fine-grained "human"
controls.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>When I enquired about its capabilities I was told it had many degrees of
movement in all the joints one finds in a human hand. I wondered out loud if
anyone had ever tried to play the piano with it, to which our host gave me
a raised eyebrow and a thoughtful, "hmmm... that would be interesting".</p>
<p>Of course, there are your common "service droid" type robots that trundle
around on wheels with a camera and arm attached to them. Even these are
intricate and substantial bits of kit.</p>
<figure>
<img alt="A robot helper" src="https://ntoll.org/images/droid.jpg" />
<figcaption>A robot used for servicing when the LHC is on.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Both Will and I had a great time at CERN. A large part of the reason
being Phil, Jo and their family's hospitality. As we were leaving for the
airport Phil mentioned a film, called
<a href="http://particlefever.com/">Particle Fever</a>,
that tells the story of how the folks at CERN confirmed the existence of the
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Higgs_boson">Higgs boson</a>. On our return home
Will and I watched it... and if you're looking for a film about particle
physics, this is <em>NOT</em> it. Rather, it tells a great story and places CERN, and
the work done there, into context.</p>
<p>At one point in the film, a physicist gives a presentation about the LHC
(at a moment in time just prior to when it was first switched on) and
fields a question from the audience. They are asked, "but what value is the
work at CERN? (and by the way, I'm an economist)". The physicist giving the
presentation is brutally honest and admits that he has no idea and the damn
thing may not work.</p>
<p>This moment resonated with me.</p>
<p>It's not uncommon for folks to doubt the value of endeavours close to my heart
such as classical music or philosophy. So hearing a physicist asked such a
question made me think, "huh... so it happens to you folks too...".</p>
<p>I feel sad, disappointed and frustrated when I encounter people who can't
imagine a world where <em>economic value is <strong>not</strong> the only valuable outcome</em>.</p>
<p>We don't make music, ponder philosophy nor try to comprehend the universe
because such activities create economic value. We do them because they make
life worth living, enlarge our world and connect us to something beyond
ourselves. Any economic value is merely a welcome fortuitous side-effect. The
Nobel Prize winning physicist
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Feynman">Richard Feynman</a> claimed that
he didn't do physics to change the world or discover some grand unifying theory
of everything,<em> but just for the pleasure of finding things out</em>.</p>
<p>Bravo CERN, it was a pleasure to find things out about the work you all do. I
sincerely hope to return soon (with Will - he'd never forgive me if I left
him at home).</p>